If your computer got water damaged, the single most important rule is: do not power it on to “see if it works.” Water plus electricity is what kills electronics — a wet machine that stays off is often recoverable; a wet machine that gets powered on usually isn’t. Unplug it, pull the battery if it’s a laptop, and let a technician assess it dry. Here’s the full sequence, including what the odds of recovery really look like.

Do not power on a wet computer, even to check it. Unplug it, remove the battery if possible, and get it inspected dry by a professional.
First 10 minutes
- Disconnect power at the wall. If it’s a laptop, remove the battery if it’s removable; if not, don’t press the power button at all.
- If it’s storm or flood related, photograph everything where it sits — your insurance claim needs pictures before cleanup.
- Move the device somewhere dry. Stand a laptop in an inverted “V” (tent) to let water drain away from the board.
- Remove external drives, USB devices, and memory cards — these often survive even when the machine doesn’t.
What never to do
- Don’t power it on: even days later, until it’s been opened and inspected — invisible moisture and corrosion cause shorts.
- Don’t use a hair dryer or oven: heat warps components and drives moisture deeper.
- Skip the rice myth: rice barely absorbs ambient moisture and adds starch dust to the problem. Open air with a fan does more.
- Don’t charge a wet laptop or phone: lithium batteries that got wet are a genuine fire risk.
Clean water vs. flood water: the odds are different
A splash of clean water on a powered-off machine is often survivable with prompt drying. Hurricane flood water is another story — it’s salty, silty, and contaminated, and it corrodes circuit boards within days. Salt residue keeps conducting electricity even after everything looks dry, which is why flooded electronics that “worked fine for a week” suddenly die. Machines submerged in storm surge are usually totaled as computers — but that’s not the end of the story, because the part that matters most often survives.
Clean Water Splash
Often survivable with prompt drying and a professional inspection. Good odds if the machine was off when it got wet.
Storm or Flood Water
Salty and contaminated — corrodes boards within days. The computer is often totaled, but the data usually survives.
Your data is probably fine — if you don’t cook it
Hard drives are sealed, and SSD memory chips tolerate a soaking far better than the rest of the computer. Professional recovery from flooded machines succeeds regularly — as long as nobody powered the drive up wet. If the machine holds anything irreplaceable and you have no backup, do not experiment: every power-on attempt lowers the odds. Take the drive (or the whole machine) to a professional and say the words “it got wet” up front.
Preventing this in the first place is mostly about what happens before the storm arrives — see our guide on how to protect electronics during a hurricane.
For businesses: totaled hardware, documented properly
After a flood, resist the urge to throw ruined machines in the dumpster.
- Inventory everything: document every damaged device with serial numbers and photos — your insurance and tax write-offs depend on it.
- Wipe or destroy drives before disposal: flood-damaged doesn’t mean unreadable, and customer data on a dumpstered drive is a breach waiting to happen.
For the full reopening sequence beyond just the hardware, see our after-the-hurricane IT recovery checklist.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can a water-damaged computer be fixed?
Often, yes — if it was off when it got wet and stays off until inspected. Clean-water exposure has good odds with prompt professional drying and cleaning. Salt or flood water is much harsher; the machine may be totaled but the data usually survives.
Can data be recovered from a flooded computer?
Usually. Drives are far more resilient than the rest of the machine, and professional labs recover data from flooded drives routinely. The biggest risk to your data is someone powering the drive on while it’s wet or corroded.
How long should electronics dry before turning them on?
At minimum 48–72 hours in moving air — but for anything valuable or flood-exposed, drying isn’t enough: it should be opened and checked for corrosion first, because minerals left behind conduct electricity after the water is gone.
Does putting a wet laptop in rice work?
No. Rice absorbs almost nothing compared with open air and a fan, and it wastes the critical first hours. Drain, dry with airflow, and get it inspected.
Your growth is the mission.
MetroTech assesses and recovers water-damaged computers and drives for Tampa Bay businesses, and rebuilds systems safely once they’re dry. Visit mettec.net or contact us before you power anything back on.






